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The
Department
of the Pyrenees Orientales is a fantastic area for walking, and at
Mas Bellonte in the
Rotja
Valley
you are ideally situated to take advantage of the amazing variety of
walks on offer. There is a huge network of well-marked footpaths,
some of which link villages together, some are ancient tracks made by
"bergers" to take their herds of cows,
goats or sheep to and from the summer pastures, and many must have
been created purely for recreational use.
We are located in
a veritable mecca for walking and hiking enthusiasts, with routes
varying from the gentle and scenic, to more serious routes on the
higher mountains. Regardless of the route, they are all set amongst
the most beautiful Pyrenean landscapes with stunning views of
mountains, rugged gorges, glacial valleys all featuring in this
diverse landscape.
Directly
from Mas Bellonte walkers have access to over 250 km of mountain paths.
You can take a gentle stroll from the house along the valley
floor, or along either of the ridges which enclose the valley. These
will give you beautiful panoramic views and within the scope of an
easy afternoon walk you can see an old partially restored chapel, a
dolmen, a disused quarry of pink marble and a 17th
Century cistern built by General Vauban whose many achievements
include the forts at
Villefranche,
Mont
Louis and Collioure. Still
walking from the house, you can take a superb undulating ridge to
the Tour de Goa, one of the remaining signal towers built in the 15th
Century, from which there are stunning views of Canigou and the
other surrounding mountains.
Within a short drive, there are several walks possible from
the small spa town of Vernet les Bains, including one up to the Pic
de Cogollo on the slopes of Canigou, a climb of about 700m, or a
little further to the mountain refuge of Bonne Aigue, 1000m of
ascent. Also from Vernet, or from nearby Casteil, you can do a
circuit including the magnificently situated abbey of St Martin du
Canigou. Driving from the Col de Jou above Casteil on the rough
forestry track up to the refuge of Mariailles gives several further
options of high-level walks on summer pastures and rocky peaks. The
windy road above Sahorre will take you to the picturesque village
of
Py, where you can walk in the nature reserve, or further to the Col de
Mantet, where an easy climb takes you to the summit of Tres Estelles,
or in the other direction, up onto the Pla de Segala.
The Canigou itself (2784m), which is a local landmark and has long
been considered the sacred
mountain
of
Catalonia, can of course be climbed. You can hire a jeep from one of the
surrounding villages which will take you to the Chalet des Cortalets,
from where it is a 3 hr 30m round trip, with a 630m climb, on a
rough and stony path, but without real difficulty. From Mariailles
(mentioned above) it is a climb of 1060m, but is a long walk, of 7
to 8 hours, and involves tackling the infamous “chimney” in at
least one direction. There are many other routes, and you can walk
from Vernet les Bains or Fillols, but it is recommended to do this
as a two-day trip, sleeping overnight at the Chalet
des Cortalets,
which is
very close to a beautiful glacial lake (2144m).Alternatively, there
are the Refuge de Mariailles and Batere; these all offer food, drink and
overnight facilities. Alternatively there are a number of
unmanned refuges which can provide a basic shelter, open fire
cooking and simple sleeping facilities.
All these walks are based around the green valleys of the Rotja and
Cady rivers, and you will find forests of chestnuts, beech,
conifers and oaks, carpets of sweet-smelling wild thyme, and, on the
higher slopes, a colourful assortment of wild flowers in early
summer – gorse, broom, azaleas, lilies, yellow and blue gentian,
orchids, globe flowers, monkshood and many more. Wildlife may
include red squirrels, isards (the Pyrenean version of the chamois),
deer and occasionally marmots, and you will see traces of wild boar,
where they have dug in the soft earth around mountain springs,
though the wild boar (or sanglier) themselves are not often
seen in daylight. Butterflies are plentiful, with a huge number of
species present in the area, and you may see many birds, including
buzzards, eagles and vultures.
As you go further afield, the possibilities become too
numerous to mention in any detail. You can drive up towards the
plateau of the Cerdagne, or down towards the reservoir at Vinca, and
walk up one of the many side valleys off the main N116 road. There
are many Romanesque chapels, old castles, and tiny hamlets, some
still inhabited and others abandoned. On the South-facing slopes to
the North of the main Tet valley, the terrain is harsher and rockier, with a typical
garrigue
vegetation, but you can also see carpets of wild narcissus on some of the slopes, and many other flowers.
Up on the Cerdagne, the
Eyne
Valley
is a nature reserve, with a beautiful mountain river, a superb
variety of wild flowers and a good chance of seeing marmots. The
area around Lac des Bouillouses, up from Mont Louis, offers a
paradise of small mountain lakes, at 2000m altitude, and a range of
beautiful walks, including the ascent of Mt Carlit, which at 2921m
is even higher than Canigou, a round trip of about 5 hours and 900m
ascent. All of these are within a 1hr 30m drive from Mas Bellonte.
The
famous GR10 (Grand Randonnee 10), which follows the French Spanish
border from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic coasts passes within a
few kilometres of the Mas. This is a serious walk of some 870km in
total, but a portion can be tasted to whet your appetite.
www.balades-pyrenees.com
Finally, a word or two of caution. Most of the walks require a
reasonable level of fitness, though there are gentle options in all
the areas mentioned. It is always worth taking the normal
precautions when walking in mountains. Tell someone where you are
going and roughly when you expect to be back. Most of the paths
round here are very well marked, but it is always possible to get
lost, so take a guide book, map and compass if you are going on a
long walk. Take enough food and plenty of water. The sun here can be
very strong at all times of year, but equally, the summits can turn
cold in the wind even on hot days, so always take a spare layer of
clothing. Be prepared for sudden changes in the weather – summer
storms can come up in the mountains later in the day, so it is
always best to start off fairly early and be on the way down by
early afternoon. Having
chosen and prepared for your walk, it just remains to get out there
and enjoy some of our wonderful countryside.
Bonne
promenade!
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